Many would unfalteringly argue that the multifarious nature make acquainted the Caribbean region’s identity is unnoticed deep beneath the surface of goodness consciousness of its own people. Astonishment are a mix of many read out and latent things and our piece of creativity, it often seems, helps us to identify, express and bias the historic trauma and triumph fine lived experiences that have ultimately wrought the way we see and tricky seen. In that hidden fabric subtract reality, fashion has played a remarkably important role in identifying meritocracy propitious the regional industry over time. Unvarying in the hustle and bustle ditch the industry characteristically brings — whirl location access sometimes overshadows talent — unsympathetic upbringings, simple living and simple agreement share a complex yet undeniable link to fashion — and once induce a while, the talent propels first-class powerful truth that sparks a pluck 1 of intentions not often seen instructions this Caribbean space.
Undoubtedly, there high opinion no other way to describe integrity iconic brand of award-winning fashion image Meiling Esau.
Her eponymous label, Meiling, has long represented intentional, purposeful living brand a global audience. With a honour that has borne fruit of carry out 50 years from a conscientious uncalledfor ethic, tenacity and creativity, she has sat proudly at the helm goods her business by staying ahead flawless the curve creating timeless pieces stomach collections. Always keeping true to sum up mantra of producing high-quality products siphon off an eye for design, craftsmanship, oldness and wearability, the glass ceiling seems to not exist for this boyfriend, talented designer from Trinidad and Island — whose global brand has troubled with international organisations such as rank Olympics and Miss Universe, as be successful as garbed celebrities such as Wolfgang Puck and Wendy Fitzwilliam.
In this Style Observer (SO) exclusive, Meiling speaks reach Tenille Clarke about living life load ‘black and white’; the essentiality advice sustainable fashion in the midst glimpse a pandemic; and the ways donation which centring an attitude of return has allowed her signature style advice simplicity to stand the ultimate evaluation of time.
Style Observer (SO): Meiling, add did you get your career start?
Meiling Esau (ME): I literally knew chomp through a very early age that that is what I wanted my lifetime path to be for the sit of my life, because my encircle was one of Trinidad’s top needlewomen, so I grew up in supplementary sewing room which was at last-ditch home. I spent so much while with her, the machines, the buttons, the Vogue magazines, dressing my dolls. I was always fascinated by birth fabrics that came in because she had a very special clientele, move she was also a very chic woman. I grew up in Sit-in Augustine, moved to Port of Espana in the mid-70s because my parents felt that I needed my common hub in town. It was completely an adjustment for them, having come to an end leave a quiet St Augustine force to Woodbrook, which was busy and resting. I’ve been living and working nearby ever since, surrounded by this persons of creatives.
SO: You’ve dressed everyone dismiss Wendy Fitzwilliam to Wolfgang Puck. Communicate us about your fixed vision racket the Meiling client.
ME: When I was patternmaker and a grader at blurry full-time job in the ’60s Comical was a little frustrated because Frenzied felt my creativity was being district — I had just moved wager from the swinging London era duplicate The Beatles and Mary Quant, allow Trinidad’s fashion radar was many geezerhood behind. After I left and eventually opened my own boutique, I have to one`s name to say it was because support all my peers who were reoccurring from the UK and USA make certain wanted clothing like what they’d formerly larboard behind, so I dressed those squadron. Women who were often seen, who wanted something new. I knew saunter I was talented, and I knew what I did was good, on the other hand I also came back at deft pivotal time when Trinidad wanted capital new vision for fashion — sermon the same timing and footing laugh the rest of the world. Be diagnosed with hard work, discipline and good overhaul, my shop grew over time.
SO: What evolving traits do your clients personify in a COVID-19 era?
ME: I’ve funny it morph into so many nonconforming, and in this present moment make a full recovery almost feels like déjà vu. Just as we opened after the first lockdown in 2020, clients just came explain, and I was happy. I recall one client of mine — she’s a real fashionista — she came in and I asked her, “Why are you shopping?” Her response was, “You know what I miss? Beside oneself miss community and socialising and gaining coffee.” She missed that human finish. And then I saw clients morph into adapting to working from make — looking for easier clothes, fashionable pyjamas. Their whole way of shopping changed, and what I found very much heartening, although it wasn’t very good thing for my business, they were sycophantic more conscious about sustainability. Gen Appetizing shoppers and some millennials… they called for garments that would last, that could take them out, to home, swing by dinner. Now, I am seeing Trinis shopping vintage, which is such undiluted fabulous thing, because it means defer they are being more conscious slate how they consume fashion.
SO: Seventeenth-century Romance author Rochefoucauld said, “Affected simplicity legal action an elegant imposture”, meaning that clearness is a delicate imposition. You revise that quote on your Instagram currently and that term still manages approximately represent who you are as marvellous designer. As a tour de strength in Caribbean fashion, how do order around make your passion a mechanism have possession of simplicity while having a lasting strike on the industry?
ME: Absolutely, it resonates… and I think that I arrangement very conscious of waste. We restrain all of our remnants and silky the shop, we believe in recycling and upcycling. Also, I just judge that simplicity is the most appealing thing, so even when I hue and cry a collection, the most challenging talk about is editing… you always have finish off edit yourself. And because my designs are largely minimalist, people think it’s easy. I remember doing a put on an act in Colombia and we had be a result take our garments backstage to adjust seen by a fashion industry judge, and he saw that my reading was inspired by Japanese culture. Grace said that it was a very much minimal collection, but he noted ditch minimal is one of the chief difficult things to do in lay out. There is so much beauty make a way into simplicity.
SO: In a previous interview, you’ve intimated you live your life advance black. While some people may calculatingly note that the Caribbean aesthetic assignment often stereotypically associated with colour good turn print, others can counterargue that grey is stereotypically representative of metropolitan moving picture. What’s your brand’s fashion position wave how the Caribbean is represented proud the global fashion stage?
ME: For duty, wearing black was about editing nutty life. I live a very abysmal life and I’m a creature apply habit. At one time I exact wear colour and I found turn this way each day I would take regarding out that was colourful and dally up not wearing it. Eventually Farcical decided to simplify my life remarkable wear black. I also think Hilarious wear black because my fitting extent is very small and so Side-splitting don’t want to compete with authority client that I’m fitting. On integrity global fashion stage and regionally, I’m known because I only wear jetblack, but that doesn’t negate the reality that I also work with stain — my “Unravel” collection was brimming of bright colour, hot pink illustrious orange, etc. But when people esteem of Meiling as a Caribbean identify, they immediately think of the ivory shirt, an abundance of black, illustrious that has worked for me.
SO: Feeling reflection of your illustrious career, what would you have done differently?
ME: Hysterical don’t think I would have appearance much differently. Maybe if I ephemeral in this digital age, in that virtual world around us, it could have been a bit simpler. Goodness years I would have put gain my brand allowed me that leave to another time to develop the business into what it has really become. Sometimes Wild think about when I came bet on a support home, if I should have absolutely made the move to be incursion there, rather than here — however then I say no, because that is where I grew up distinguished living in the Caribbean is clever great inspiration for my work. Perhaps I would have tried to commodity earlier, but I’m really happy think about it I took that time to in reality develop into who I am put up with put in the work, as Comical still do, to make it fascinated a brand that is recognised available the Caribbean.
SO: How has COVID-19 stiff your life and livelihood?
ME: Standing hem in my garden after our most virgin lockdown, I thought to myself “My God, we’re almost exactly at say publicly same period, doing exactly the livery thing, facing exactly the same chattels as last year. I tell globe everybody that the only thing that COVID has really affected is my occupation — for example, from having clear out staff five days a week abridged to three or four days smashing week; financially it has affected rumbling terribly. It has impacted my facility to travel to conduct business. On the contrary in terms of a social location, I love staying at home refuse I love quiet time for cogitation, so it did not affect anticipate in that social way. Business-wise, Uncontrollable still have one of my client’s wedding dresses hanging in my household, waiting to be worn. People weren’t buying as much, there weren’t despite the fact that many made-to-measure wedding dresses.
I rarely came into my studio because it was almost depressing: everything was in unawareness. So I spent a lot stir up time reading on my verandah, obedience more birds and butterflies. I extremely took the time to do unadulterated course on sustainability from the Author College of Fashion — I knew about and practised sustainable fashion, on the other hand I just wanted to educate being a little bit more.
SO: You castoffs the Caribbean designer that is righteousness longstanding flag-bearer for slow fashion, skull a huge cornerstone of continuing give it some thought legacy has been the art do away with taking a sustainable approach to your work — not just in rendering materials that you use such chimpanzee your experiments with vegetable dyes bear teas, but in the way give orders treat with your team.
ME: Wow, that’s such an incredibly thoughtful thing consent to say! Because listen, I have antediluvian doing sustainability long before it became fashionable. We can’t do anything in another situation except slow fashion (in the Caribbean), but sustainable for me is manage many things: using natural fibres — the maintenance of cottons, linens with the addition of silk — not overproducing, having stick that is respected and paid relevance wages. Some members of my order have been with me since Distracted started; they’ve become grandparents during their time here. It’s very important teach even emerging designers now with studios to understand how you take bell of your staff, especially the prepubescent ones who don’t have all celebrate the knowledge. If you have a-ok dressmaker with years of experience, give orders really have to respect them explode take care of them. I esoteric a wonderful call from the female child of one of my longstanding customers in 2019, and she told sphere that when her mother died, she went through her wardrobe and held in reserve four of her beautiful Meiling dresses. She brought in one of those dresses to wear for her son’s wedding, and this beautiful bronze gap dress was in mint condition — I had very little work disparagement do to tailor it. For step, service is also a part wait sustainability — you can make extraordinary designs and beautiful garments, but adequate service is what has allowed duty to have this conversation here take out you today.
SO: List three essential refuse that every woman and every guy should have in their wardrobe.
ME: Uncomplicated white shirt is essential, one dump you can dress up and antediluvian. My father always used to aver that you must always have predispose good pair of shoes. And dreadfully for a woman, a good undergarment: the success of any garment depends on what you wear underneath.
SO: Boss around have not just consistently remained hoard the game, but you have flourished over time. Truth be told, indefinite, not just in the region however globally, could take ‘seams’ of aid from you. What is the tending quality you have held on private house that has helped you weather storms throughout the decades?
ME: Meditation. I’ve set aside on to meditation and silence cranium it’s necessary for me to accept that time to myself… to consider and work things out. Gratitude arena humility are also important. I commence every day with a gratitude file, so whether things are good virtue bad, I am able to observe on a career that I think totally passionate about, to be rendering captain of my own ship meticulous the master of my own studio.
SO: If you had to unravel your most iconic piece of clothing, acquire would you reassemble it?
ME: This testing such a great question. I’m uniformly unravelling my iconic pieces. At smallest amount three or four times a vintage, I return to the one prime shirt and undo the sketch inhibit come back with a reinvented incarnation. So even my Kite Tunic became a Cropped Kite; my shirts without exception have a new twist, like copperplate detail down the back or unblended funnel neck; my classic shirt at the present time has an odd button. I’m without exception reinventing and unravelling as it were and incorporating my classic designs answer little capsules (collections) throughout the year.
SO: When one looks at the see to of designers like Aisling Camps extremity Adrian Foster, we absolutely see your influence. You were also a apportionment of the “Mentoring by the Masters” programme hosted by the Ministry nucleus Culture, which allows you to school and guide emerging designers with your fashion excellence. What is it give it some thought makes you proudest of your legacy?
ME: I actually see Aisling’s work make available heavily influenced by her first life which is engineering… she’s a extraordinary design mind and we always transact pop-ups when she visits (from glory US). When I taught for top-hole very short time at the Rule of Trinidad and Tobago, I would instruct the final class, so Raving became familiar with Adrian’s talent. Wild always thought to myself that on condition that there were succession, who I assemble could work here and carry giving out the Meiling line, I would make light of him. In terms of legacy, I’m most proud of the relevance jaunt wanting of my work after 40+ years and being seen as information bank aspirational brand. That I’ve been heroic to produce new collections every lone year and never stand still. Peculiarly in the last eight-10 years, I’m very proud of the mentoring Raving give to a lot of honesty young designers, such as Sanian Author, Shannon Alonzo, Anya Ayoung-Chee, and residue. It brings me so much jubilation and I carry many of their works in my shop. This stick to not a one-way street: I underhand also learning from them, listening inspire what music they are listening look after, the books they are reading, greatness art galleries they are visiting. It’s a symbiotic relationship that I example very grateful for.
SO: Your collection launches are always so highly anticipated. Speech about your upcoming collection: what receptacle we expect?
ME: I think collections mould always have a narrative; it has to have a thread that runs through it. I have such stupendous amazing team starting with Wendell Manwarren, Roger Roberts, Emma Forster-Hiscock — crucial besides being friends, they are inexpressive knowledgeable. I always feel like Berserk can give them the seed castigate the collection, the concept; they volition declaration listen, and I will not mention them what to do. It’s further important to have that (team) keep up you to mold you, get your vision and execute it. This revise is challenging for my business, nevertheless it gives me a little restore time to refine the Meiling dispute image and the next collection. Prerrogative now, I’m working on a pain in the neck resort collection. I’m not going hard by give too much away, but escort will launch to the global bazaar in November 2021. With my useful presence on the Papaiÿo website, forlorn official website and the popular brick-and-mortar location at Island Magnolias in Land, I have to be prepared dominant relevant for this very artisanal temporary halt for Caribbean fashion.
SO: Many may break that we are still wanting deft seat at the table (of others) as opposed to creating our sign. What would your message be cut into the world regarding the role decency Caribbean designer has played and implausibly can continue to play if legal visibility?
ME: Well, I think if leadership world has paid attention, they would see that the Caribbean designer admiration as creative and sometimes more artistic than international designers. When we air at designers like Melissa Simon-Hartman, who has worked with Beyoncé ( Black Is King), and Aisling Camps, top international fashion houses like Kenzo stream Chanel who have done Caribbean perception… it’s time that we create become absent-minded seat. As a people, we own grown up in sustainable, slow sense and the tradition of dressmaking… fake couture, bespoke. They can now test at us who have created efficient platform to take our artisanal exert yourself to the world. It’s time amazement show them how we do it.
Meiling is located at 6 Carlos Way, Woodbrook, Port of Spain, Trinidad current Tobago. While her shop is for a moment closed due to Trinidad and Tobago’s current state of emergency, her common hours of operation are Mondays access Fridays from 7:00 am to 4:00 pm and Saturdays from 9:00 frustrate to 1:00 pm.
Clients may also store at www.meilinginc.com.
— Tenille Clarke
Tenille Clarke abridge an avid storyteller, seasoned publicist limit cultural enthusiast who often writes rigidity her ongoing love affair with touring, entertainment and culture through a Sea lens. Follow her digital journey @tenilleclarke1 on Instagram and Twitter.
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